PORTELINHA

The Maracanã of Samba

Estrada do Portela was a landmark street in Oswaldo Cruz, serving as the main route to the former Portela Farm and now linking the neighborhood to Madureira. Despite the differences between these areas, both share a historical connection to the farm, which was not only a hub for agricultural production but also a vital waypoint for migrants heading to Rio de Janeiro. Many of these families, primarily Black migrants from other regions, found integration and opportunities in this area.

During the 1930s and 1940s, as Oswaldo Cruz urbanized, a plot of land featuring a large jackfruit tree became one of the cradles of Carioca samba. By the 1950s, it had been established as Portela’s official headquarters.

In 1961, the site was transformed into the first roofed samba school quadra (practice hall). Unfortunately, the iconic jackfruit tree had to be cut down during construction, leaving a lasting sense of loss among the sambistas who had once held rehearsals and samba circles beneath its shade. This sentiment was immortalized by composer Zé Keti in the samba “A Jaqueira da Portela,” remembering fondly his “old beloved friend and companion”. The song was later popularized by Paulinho da Viola, a celebrated Portela patron and sponsor of the Velha Guarda.

At the time, the size of the quadra was extraordinary. It not only hosted rehearsals but also served as a workspace for creating costumes and floats, earning it the nickname “Maracanã of Samba.”

The space became a gathering place for samba legends like Manacéa, Waldir 59, Candeia, and many others. Numerous sambas de terreiro and winning Carnival themes were born in this historic cultural carioca temple.

As samba culture expanded, Portela built a new, larger quadra nearby, affectionately called Portelão. Today, the original location houses the headquarters of Portela’s Velha Guarda and facilitates social initiatives by the school. Known lovingly as Portelinha, it remains a cherished cultural landmark.