The Penha Basilica
The Basilica Shrine of Our Lady of Penha of France is one of the most important religious sanctuaries in the country. Its history dates back to 1635, when Captain Baltazar de Abreu Cardoso, who owned the area surrounding the current sanctuary, was bitten by a snake while climbing the hill to inspect his plantations. He asked Our Lady for help and, after escaping with his life, built a small chapel in her honor at the top of the hill. Since then, the site has been a center of pilgrimage and devotion.
J. Pinto. Penha Church, 1900-1910. Instituto Oswaldo Cruz Collection. Brasiliana Fotográfica
Until the early 19th century, devotees had to climb the rock to visit the chapel. In 1817, as they were making their way up the rock, a couple made a pledge that they would carve steps into the cliff if they were able to have a child. And so they did. They funded the construction, which was carried out by enslaved workers, and access to the church became easier.
Marc Ferrez. Penha Church during the festival, 1912. Gilberto Ferrez Collection. Brasiliana Fotográfica.
The 382 steps have taken on a symbolic significance for devotees, who climb the many steps as an act of penance, devotion, and gratitude for blessings received. This tradition of climbing the steps, sometimes on their knees, has strengthened the symbolism of sacrifice and faith that defines the relationship between worshippers and the sanctuary and attracts pilgrims from all over Brazil. The steps and the climb to the top are steeped in stories of faith which further enrich devotion to the site. Today, the sanctuary also features a cable car service, making the ascent easier for visitors and improving accessibility.
Monzart. Penha Festival, 30 September 1972. Correio da Manhã Collection. National Archive.
The original chapel evolved with successive expansions that were made to accommodate the growing number of worshippers. Construction of the current basilica, in neo-Gothic style, began in 1900 and was completed in 1925. The church’s architecture is characterized by its tall towers and pointed arch windows, emphasizing its monumental and sacred nature. It stands out impressively in the urban landscape and can be seen from various points across the city.
Photo: Reproduction from Canção Nova
The importance of the Church of Penha is not solely religious. It also represents the culture and history of the city of Rio de Janeiro. Over the years, the sanctuary has become a melting pot where faith, popular culture, and Carioca traditions blend together. The famous Penha Festival, celebrated annually in October, draws thousands of people to one of the oldest and most important popular celebrations in the city. The festival combines elements of culture, music, food, and street vendors, attracting both worshippers and tourists alike.
It was at the Penha Festival that prominent samba artists such as Pixinguinha, Heitor dos Prazeres, Donga, and Noel Rosa tested the compositions that would set the tone for the following year’s Carnival. The festival was not only a stage for showcasing their work but also a source of inspiration for artists like Cartola and many others.
A shirt and a second-hand suit,
Can anyone lend them to me?
Today is Sunday,
And I need to go to the festival.
Not for fun,
I want to say a prayer,
To ask the patron saint for protection.
One of my friends will lend them.
Today is Sunday.
I need to go to Penha,
I’ll take some money to buy
wax candles.
I want to take flowers
For the patron saint.
I won’t climb
The steps on my knees,
So I don’t ruin
The suit I borrowed.
Cartola – Penha Festival
Penha Festival, 2023. Reproduction from the official site of the Our Lady of Penha Basilica
In 2016, Pope Francis granted the church the title of Minor Basilica, recognizing its importance to the Catholic faith in Brazil. This title is awarded to churches of great historical, cultural, and spiritual significance, further cementing the church’s status as one of the country’s most important religious landmarks. The Basilica Shrine of Our Lady of Penha of France remains a symbol of faith and the city’s history, serving as a place of devotion, memory, and identity for generations of Cariocas.
Monzart. Penha Festival, 30 September 1972. Correio da Manhã Collection. National Archive.
