OSWALDO CRUZ STATION
The Samba Train
In the early 20th century, Oswaldo Cruz was a predominantly rural and residential neighborhood, dotted with small farms, local shops, modest townhouses, and spacious backyards. Urbanization began with the arrival of Black workers from farms in southern Minas Gerais and central Rio regions. This influx turned Oswaldo Cruz into a hub for various Afro-Brazilian cultural expressions, such as Jongo. It was in the neighborhood’s backyard gatherings that samba circles, street blocs, and samba schools began to take shape.
The train, both as a mode of transportation and a symbol of connection, played a crucial role in spreading ideas, melodies, and influences. It became a “cultural artery,” vital for the circulation of musical traditions.
Paulo da Portela famously cemented the relationship between samba and the train. In the 1920s, while working in downtown Rio, Paulo would catch the 6:04 pm train to Oswaldo Cruz. At the time, singing samba in the streets was not welcomed by the police, who could arrest sambistas for vagrancy. To avoid this repression, Paulo and his friends would gather in the train cars and sing sambas during the journey, undisturbed.
In the mid-1990s, sambistas led by Marquinhos de Oswaldo Cruz recreated Paulo’s route with the Trem do Samba project. Since then, Brazil’s National Samba Day is celebrated with trains filled with samba circles in every car, departing from Central do Brasil station. As the train passes through Mangueira, everyone sings: “Mangueira, teu cenário é uma beleza” (Mangueira, such scenic beauty). When it reaches Madureira, the refrain changes to: “Um trem de luxo parte, para exaltar a sua arte, que encantou Madureira” (A luxury train departs, to exalt your art, which enchanted Madureira). It’s a true celebration of popular geography!
Upon arriving at Oswaldo Cruz, both sides of the station are filled with samba circles and shows. This tradition not only integrates the city but also fosters economic development by preserving cultural heritage, keeping the soul of samba alive and uncompromised.
