FEIRA DAS YABÁS
Wisdom and Flavors of the Matriarchs
Nestled between two historic Portela landmarks — Bar do Nozinho and Portelinha — lies a square named in honor of the great icon and founder of the samba school, Paulo da Portela. The square features a bust of Paulo, symbolizing the cultural and historical significance of the neighborhood.
Once a month, the street, typically bustling with cars, transforms into a vibrant marketplace. Stalls offering delicious food line the area, and a stage hosts performances for what has become an Intangible Heritage of the city: the Feira das Yabás. Held every second Sunday of the month, this event showcases the best of suburban cuisine and the talent of local samba artists, celebrating the richness of popular culture.
The word “yabá” originates from the Yoruba language and refers to women of great wisdom and leadership, particularly within African-rooted religions. In Rio, the “Tias” — as these matriarchs are affectionately called — have played a vital role in the history of samba, from Tia Ciata to Tia Surica.
Tia Surica, a pastor of the Old Guard of Portela and honorary president of the school, is a folkloric figure in the city. She graces the Feira with her presence, singing and serving rabada com agrião (oxtail stew with watercress), a dish loved by sambistas. The Yabás are celebrated as pillars of care, community protection, and tradition preservation. The Feira pays homage to their legacy, emphasizing how good food becomes a medium of affection and a means of passing down wisdom and flavors. This gathering honors the matriarchs who, with effort and wisdom, nurture their families and uphold cultural traditions in the suburban Rio.
Visitors to the Feira can indulge in delights such as fried jiló, feijoada, tripa lombeira, chicken with okra, and cozido. But, let’s stop here — just talking about it is enough to make your mouth water!
The samba, of course, is led by Marquinhos de Oswaldo Cruz and his esteemed guests. Since the Feira’s inception in 2008 at Portelinha, nearly all of samba’s great names have performed here, drawing crowds and boosting the local economy.
