Rio Entre encantos e assombros

CURADORIA

Luiz Rufino

CURADORIA

Luiz Antonio Simas

Between January and March 1904, João do Rio, a young Carioca reporter, published a series of reports titled “As Religiões no Rio” in the Gazeta de Notícias do Rio de Janeiro. A success at the time, these writings still echo today, triggering important debates about the ambivalences, contrasts, affections, violences, differences, and conflicts that permeate the city. The gallery proposes a look at the intersections between faith and festival in Rio, which occur in romarias, promises, and offerings to deities, superstitions, and in everyday rituals.

Astonishment, devotion, festival, furdunço and market:

what do these words say about the souls that wander through this place? What can those five points, scratched and crossed on the village floor, tell us about the intimacy, dream, luck, struggle, magic, life and death of the inhabitants? There are those who give a name that tries to explain all of this: religion. How, however, we are faithful to the quizumbas traced in the village, we prefer to evoke the foundations of mystery.

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Market

In Brazil, expressions of faith, the intimacy with the sacred, and the awe of the communal rites that weave what many call religiosity have color, taste, smell, sound, rhythm, and body. Thus, there is no environment more conducive for these things to walk the streets than a good old market. The Mercadão de Madureira, also known as the “mercado da macumba,” has everything to perform a good faith: from candles to tobacco to the jogo do bicho stalls, from the Christian saint to the pagan. In fact, if there is one thing the carioca knows how to do is negotiate with saints: the intimacy with the santidades is sealed in promises—which must be paid, no one denies it, all in their own time. In the lands of the tupinambás crossed by hauntings, santidades and mystics that crossed the ocean, aspects such as game, luck, and misfortune are important cards in our deck. In this impression of mystery as a game, what much brought to the imaginary and to carioca life are the ciganos peoples, who evoke their magics and customs into the cumbuca.

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