Rio Entre encantos e assombros

CURADORIA

Luiz Rufino

CURADORIA

Luiz Antonio Simas

Between January and March 1904, João do Rio, a young Carioca reporter, published a series of reports titled “As Religiões no Rio” in the Gazeta de Notícias do Rio de Janeiro. A success at the time, these writings still echo today, triggering important debates about the ambivalences, contrasts, affections, violences, differences, and conflicts that permeate the city. The gallery proposes a look at the intersections between faith and festival in Rio, which occur in romarias, promises, and offerings to deities, superstitions, and in everyday rituals.

Astonishment, devotion, festival, furdunço and market:

what do these words say about the souls that wander through this place? What can those five points, scratched and crossed on the village floor, tell us about the intimacy, dream, luck, struggle, magic, life and death of the inhabitants? There are those who give a name that tries to explain all of this: religion. How, however, we are faithful to the quizumbas traced in the village, we prefer to evoke the foundations of mystery.

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Furdunço

Without saint and without sin, but with much peleja between the intentions that cross heaven and hell, city and forest, house and corner, Rio has become a true fuzuê where the most different ways of life brush against and eat, each in its own way, in the same gamela. Here, rites are practiced that streak the city and throw dendê on the priest's cassock, as the “Chave de Ouro” block used to do, by celebrating the gods of feast and pleasure in the middle of Ash Wednesday. A Rio of flower and knife, caress and lash, a city in which quizumba can descend in the same body as poetry and mandinga. Thus, Lapa is the best place to establish a sanctuary for the santo malandro that the city deserves. In its arches, corners, cobblestones, biroscas, posts, and gulps spilled on the ground, lives the memory of many people who passed through there and made it what it is; a true furdunço.

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