ArcodoTeles

This plaque is part of the 'Praça XV' circuit. Click here to see more about this and other circuits.

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Anyone who walks through the Arco do Teles in downtown Rio embarks on a journey back to Colonial Brazil. The structure, dating from the mid-18th century, connects Praça XV to Rua do Ouvidor, survived downtown's urbanization processes, and was listed as Historical Heritage by IPHAN in 1938.

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph of a historic arch located at "Arco do Teles". The image shows a street with large trees on the left, casting shade over the scene. In the background, there is a building with several windows and doors, some with iron bars. People walk along the street, and old cars are parked nearby. On the right, there is a classic black car.

The history of the Arco do Teles began around 1740, when the construction of the Casa dos Governadores (present-day Paço Imperial) greatly increased the value of the area. In light of this, the Portuguese judge Francisco Telles de Menezes (the “judge of orphans”) bought some plots of land on the other side of Praça XV and commissioned José Alpoim – the architect responsible for the Paço's construction – to build a set of luxurious houses. Built over an arch, allowing passage between the Praça and Beco do Comércio, the place came to be known as Arco do Teles, in reference to its owner.

Image description: This is a painting depicting a historic square. On the left side, we see a building with baroque architecture, characterized by ornamental details and a central tower. In the center, there is a large three-story building with regularly spaced windows and a light-colored façade. On the right, another smaller building, also with a simple façade, is partially hidden by the central structure. In the background, we see a church with a dome and cross, standing out for its height. The square is spacious, with people walking about and a fountain in the center. The sky is clear, suggesting a sunny day.

Initially, the Telles de Menezes family resided in the houses over the Arch, but starting in 1759, the building came to be used by the Senado da Câmara. In 1790, a fire destroyed the building and the Senate's archive, causing the loss of important historical documents on land donations and holdings in the city. After the tragedy, despite renovations to the buildings, the passage through the Arch became a dwelling place for homeless people, hustlers, and prostitutes.

Image description: This is a black-and-white engraving depicting a historic square. On the left side, we see a building with several windows and a sloped roof. In the center, there is a church with a dome and a tower. On the right, a tall, sturdy monument, surrounded by people. In the middle of the image, a building encircled by a yellow circle. The square is full of human figures, some carrying objects.

The abandonment of the place gave rise to some stories that seem more like urban legends. One of them mixes fiction and reality and tells of a young Portuguese woman known as Bárbara dos Prazeres (a nickname derived from the image of Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres, placed inside the Arch). She had arrived in Brazil at the end of the 18th century, at around 20 years old, and, after killing her husband and her lover, she is said to have lived as a prostitute in the area around the Arco do Teles, even before the fire. As she grew older, Bárbara is said to have resorted to magic rituals, in which she drank the blood of children and animals to restore her youth, beauty, and money, becoming known, as well, as "A Onça" ("The Jaguar").

Image description: The image is a black-and-white engraving. It shows an arch with a central opening, where several human figures are arranged. On the left, two people are seen seated near a curved wall. In the center, there is a standing figure holding something in their hands. On the right, more people are gathered near an open door. The ground is covered with stones and some objects are arranged around it.

Scary stories aside, crossing the Arco do Teles is a dive into the history of Rio. Today, the Arco do Teles is a popular spot for the parties, bars, and restaurants found in the area.

Image description: The image shows three logos arranged horizontally, from left to right. The first logo, on the left, is blue and white with the text "RIO CAPITAL DO G20 BRASIL 2024" and a colorful symbol. In the center, there is a blue logo with the text "RIO PREFEITURA TURISMO". On the right, an orange logo with the text "RIO MEMÓRIAS". All letters are uppercase and the background is white.