If Rio rose up like a typical Portuguese city – with the main political, administrative, defense, and religious institutions atop the hill – it was at the foot of the Morro do Castelo that everyday life emerged, with an incipient trade and a few houses. And this was made possible thanks to the opening of a slope, laid out almost at the same time as the city's core: the Ladeira da Misericórdia.
Largo e ladeira da Misericórdia, Augusto Malta, 1922. A torre da igreja dos jesuítas no alto. (Divisão de Iconografia/Fundação Biblioteca Nacional)
At the beginning of Rio de Janeiro's urban formation, the Ladeira da Misericórdia was the only access route to Morro do Castelo, which, in its dimensions, extended as far as the present-day streets São José, Santa Luzia and México and the Largo da Misericórdia. With urban expansion and the descent toward the lowlands, two other accesses were opened: the Ladeira do Carmo and the Ladeira do Seminário.
Os limites do Morro do Castelo, caso ele ainda existisse. Google Maps.
The Misericórdia one was the only one of the three slopes to have a stretch preserved after the demolition of the Morro do Castelo, completed in 1922. This small 40-meter stretch withstood the passage of time and preserved its paving, made in pé de moleque style – irregularly sized stones – by enslaved people. Currently, the Ladeira da Misericórdia occupies a small space beside the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Bonsucesso (one of the oldest in the city) and the building of the Santa Casa da Misericórdia hospital. In 2017, the stretch was granted heritage protection by IPHAN for being one of the most important remnants of the city's emergence.
Ladeira do Seminário em 1904. Foto de João Martins Torres. Acervo: Instituto Moreira Salles
The Ladeira do Carmo and Ladeira do Seminário were not preserved. The latter had other names: Ladeira do Poço do Porteiro, da Mãe do Bispo, and da Ajuda, and it went downhill toward what are now Cinelândia and Avenida Rio Branco. The Ladeira do Carmo (also known as do Cotovelo or do Colégio) led toward the top of the hill, to the Colégio dos Jesuítas. The Colégio's facilities were used for other purposes after the Jesuits were expelled in 1759. It served as a Military Hospital (1760s) and, later, as an Astronomical Observatory (1846), which included a signal post for communication with the fortresses of Guanabara Bay. In 1922, the Colégio building came down along with the hill.
Ladeira do Carmo ou do Colégio, Augusto Malta, 1922. As igrejas São José, em primeiro plano, e a dos jesuítas ao fim da ladeira. (Divisão de Iconografia/Fundação Biblioteca Nacional)
References:
BEZERRA, Rafael Z., LENZI, Maria I., JOÃO, Cristiane R. V. (orgs.) So important, so forgotten: Misericórdia neighborhood. Rio de Janeiro: Museu Histórico Nacional, 2016
LENZI, Maria I. R. The old neighborhood of Misericórdia. In FERNANDES, Neusa et alii. Cantos e encantos do Rio. 1st ed. Rio de Janeiro: Mauad X, 2022.