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Rio Memórias

Sepia painting of a lively street with women in traditional attire, people walking, and tall buildings in the background.Image description: This is a sepia-toned painting depicting a lively street scene. On the left side, two women dressed in traditional clothing are talking. One of them is holding a small boy. In the center, several people are walking, some carrying objects on their heads. On the right, a man carries a heavy load on his shoulders. In the background, tall buildings with windows and balconies are visible.

“Cena da Rua Direita”, Paul Harro-Harring, 1840. Alguns escravizados carregam sacas de café. No canto inferior esquerdo, negras libertas em companhia de uma criança. IMS

In the Cais do Valongo area, in the 19th century, Africans were everywhere, not just at the enslaved people's market. It was they who rowed the boats that carried people and goods to the landing site, since large vessels could not reach the beaches of Rio de Janeiro. They loaded and unloaded everything; they transported and sold food products and ready-made meals in the streets — in this case, African women, above all — and carried out many kinds of work, including specialized services. Many of their direct descendants continued in these roles. During the time of slavery and in the post-abolition period, after a long day of work, they would gather to rest, sing, and socialize. One of these meeting places was Pedra do Sal.

The churches of São Domingos de Gusmão — located at the corner of Rua Camerino and Presidente Vargas, and now demolished —, Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedito dos Homens Pretos, Nossa Senhora da Lampadosa, and Santo Elesbão e Santa Ifigênia, located in the central region of the city, were occupied by brotherhoods of Black men and women, with their festivities, funerals, and various celebrations — Catholic, yet Africanized. Around these churches, African men and women and their direct descendants circulated throughout the 19th century and the early 20th century.

Historic square with a church, trees, and a monument.Image description: This is a historic photograph of a square with a church in the background. The church has a sloped roof and a tower with a bell. In front of the church there are trees and people walking through the square. In the foreground, we see a person standing near a circular structure, possibly a monument or a fountain. The square is paved with stones and there are buildings in the background, including a building with open arches.

A 1ª capela dedicada a S. Domingos de Gusmão foi construída por escravizados no caminho do Valongo e data do início do séc. XVIII. A 2ª igreja (da foto acima), foi construída no fim dos 1700 e demolida nos anos 1940. Biblioteca Nacional

In Campo de Santana (present-day Praça da República), from the early decades of the 19th century, the washerwomen's fountain gathered enslaved and freed women around it, in conversation, singing, and the exchange of information. In this place, around the fountain that brought water from Rio Comprido, water carriers would meet, talk, argue, and find work.

Historic square with green trees, domed buildings, architectural structures, and people walking.Image description: This is a painting depicting a historic square. On the left side, there are trees with green foliage. In the center, two buildings with domes stand out. On the right, there is an architectural structure with columns and a sloped roof. In the background, a hill covered with vegetation is visible. People are walking through the square, and some are sitting on the ground.

O chafariz do Campo tomado da Igreja de Sant’Anna. Loeillot, 1835. Biblioteca Nacional

Imagem 1 de 2: O chafariz do Campo tomado da Igreja de Sant’Anna. Loeillot, 1835. Biblioteca Nacional

On Rua Barão de São Félix (formerly Rua Princesa dos Cajueiros), very close to the present-day Rua Camerino (formerly Rua do Valongo) and to the present-day Praça dos Estivadores (formerly Largo do Depósito), the famous João Alabá — a priest respected for the knowledge he held of his religion — lived and had a candomblé house. His much-frequented house, which is said to have been established in 1886, was also a meeting place for some women who were popular leaders in the port and downtown areas of the city, and who became popularly known as tias. Among them, the most famous was Hilária Batista de Almeida, known as Tia Ciata, who, as it is told, was part of João Alabá's religious house as Ya Kekere – Mãe Pequena.

A city street with old buildings and people walking.Image description: The image is a photograph of an urban street with old buildings. On the left side, there is a yellow building with a hanging sign that reads "Casa da Tia Ciata". The sign is white with black letters and has a green and red logo. On the right, there is a row of colorful buildings, including green, blue, and brown, with traditional architecture. On the street, there are some people walking and parked vehicles. The sky is cloudy, and trees can be seen in the background.

A Casa de Tia Ciata, nos Jardins Suspensos do Valongo (rua Camerino), tornou-se um centro cultural de preservação da memória do samba e da cultura de matriz africana no Rio. Foto: Maria Paula Araújo

Outras memórias

Memória 1 de 4: Terreiros