“Cena da Rua Direita”, Paul Harro-Harring, 1840. Alguns escravizados carregam sacas de café. No canto inferior esquerdo, negras libertas em companhia de uma criança. IMS
In the Cais do Valongo area, in the 19th century, Africans were everywhere, not just at the enslaved people's market. It was they who rowed the boats that carried people and goods to the landing site, since large vessels could not reach the beaches of Rio de Janeiro. They loaded and unloaded everything; they transported and sold food products and ready-made meals in the streets — in this case, African women, above all — and carried out many kinds of work, including specialized services. Many of their direct descendants continued in these roles. During the time of slavery and in the post-abolition period, after a long day of work, they would gather to rest, sing, and socialize. One of these meeting places was Pedra do Sal.
The churches of São Domingos de Gusmão — located at the corner of Rua Camerino and Presidente Vargas, and now demolished —, Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedito dos Homens Pretos, Nossa Senhora da Lampadosa, and Santo Elesbão e Santa Ifigênia, located in the central region of the city, were occupied by brotherhoods of Black men and women, with their festivities, funerals, and various celebrations — Catholic, yet Africanized. Around these churches, African men and women and their direct descendants circulated throughout the 19th century and the early 20th century.
A 1ª capela dedicada a S. Domingos de Gusmão foi construída por escravizados no caminho do Valongo e data do início do séc. XVIII. A 2ª igreja (da foto acima), foi construída no fim dos 1700 e demolida nos anos 1940. Biblioteca Nacional
In Campo de Santana (present-day Praça da República), from the early decades of the 19th century, the washerwomen's fountain gathered enslaved and freed women around it, in conversation, singing, and the exchange of information. In this place, around the fountain that brought water from Rio Comprido, water carriers would meet, talk, argue, and find work.
O chafariz do Campo tomado da Igreja de Sant’Anna. Loeillot, 1835. Biblioteca Nacional
On Rua Barão de São Félix (formerly Rua Princesa dos Cajueiros), very close to the present-day Rua Camerino (formerly Rua do Valongo) and to the present-day Praça dos Estivadores (formerly Largo do Depósito), the famous João Alabá — a priest respected for the knowledge he held of his religion — lived and had a candomblé house. His much-frequented house, which is said to have been established in 1886, was also a meeting place for some women who were popular leaders in the port and downtown areas of the city, and who became popularly known as tias. Among them, the most famous was Hilária Batista de Almeida, known as Tia Ciata, who, as it is told, was part of João Alabá's religious house as Ya Kekere – Mãe Pequena.
A Casa de Tia Ciata, nos Jardins Suspensos do Valongo (rua Camerino), tornou-se um centro cultural de preservação da memória do samba e da cultura de matriz africana no Rio. Foto: Maria Paula Araújo