Waysofdressingandfootwear

Those who have visited the earlier memories in this same room have already noticed that we're always attentive to the question of clothing. But here, we'll stick to just this theme. Without going too deep, but drawing attention to the richness, diversity, and elegance of the way the citizens of the Rio of yesteryear dressed. This, without forgetting the famous clogs, sometimes rather precarious... The streets of Rio have always been a showcase. It's worth remembering that in those times, the influence of the so-called 'Parisian haute couture' of the second half of the 19th century still ran strong among the bourgeois stratum of local society. We begin with the old Rua Bella de São João, today's Rua Bela, in the stretch alongside Campo de São Cristóvão, in the days of modernization works and the installation of new rails, undertaken by Light. On both corners there are commercial establishments. This open-air street left many longing for it. In the early 1990s, it was covered by a two-level viaduct that forms part of the Linha Vermelha, one of the city's most important thoroughfares. Its lanes run right alongside the windows of the buildings, many of them still old townhouses that resist the passage of time and the city's cruel evolution.

Image description: This is an old photograph of an urban street. On the left, we see a building with a tiled roof and a sign that reads "AO 62." People walk along the street, some wearing hats and long dresses. In the center, there is a rail line with stopped railcars. On the right, there is a large building with classical architecture, featuring balconies and decorative windows. In the bottom right corner, a date is written: "Rio - 27-1-08."

Looking at the image more closely, we notice that it was a predominantly residential street. The status of imperial neighborhood had been lost with the fall of the monarchy, and a period of transition was beginning in that neighborhood, with many residents leaving and industries arriving from Downtown. Even so, we see the impressive number of lampposts installed and still many pedestrians circulating around there, twenty years after the proclamation of the Republic. There are workers, citizens in simpler attire, and also well-dressed ones. Men in hats and some women carrying parasols.

Image description: This is an old photograph of an urban street. The image is in black and white, showing old buildings with sloped roofs and decorative windows. On the left, there is a sign with the name "Casa Cardozo." People are walking along the street, some near the houses and others farther away. In the central part of the image, there is a stretch of railway tracks. On the right, there are taller buildings with balconies and ornamental columns. In the background, there are trees and a clear sky.

In this detail, there is clear evidence of what we call "distinction of social class." The women in the foreground – one walking to the right and the other toward the back of the image – wear long dresses and ¾-sleeved blouses with visible belts, flat shoes, and no hats or parasols; they walk with firm steps in their simpler, more functional attire. The two women walking toward the photographer, on the other hand, are dressed for a stroll or some other activity befitting their social group, wearing long dresses with tightly fitted belts; the one on the left lifts hers so it won't brush against the sidewalk; the dress on the right has a high collar. The sleeves are voluminous and followed by long gloves. White shoes, adorned hats, and parasols – which, beyond their function of protecting against the sun, were a fashion accessory of that period.

Image description: This is an old black-and-white photograph showing a street under construction. On the left, we see women walking with umbrellas and long dresses. On the right, there is a child walking alone. In the background, people are working on the construction site, and a sled is parked in the center of the image.

This photograph was taken in Praça da República, at the side of the former palace of the Conde dos Arcos, the last viceroy of Brazil. With its entrance on Rua Moncorvo Filho, this palace was built in 1819, and it was there that the Imperial Senate operated after Brazil's independence, having been the setting for many events, including the signing of the Lei Áurea in 1888. After the Republic was proclaimed, the Federal Senate continued to operate there until 1925, when it moved to the Palácio Monroe, next to Cinelândia. In the 1940s, the Law School of the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro was installed there. The building was renovated and expanded; today, the upper part of the façade, as seen in the photograph, has been altered. The purpose of the shot was to document a pole that held up electrical wiring and the tram's power cables; and the photographer wisely widened the frame to include the tracks. But also in the shot are a passerby — in uniform, perhaps from the police forces — and an elegant gentleman who seems to be waiting for the tram, perhaps. He deserves a special mention.

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph of a building with a classical facade. On the left side, we see a person walking, holding an object in their hands. In the center, there is a light post and a telephone pole. On the right, another person is standing, looking at the building. The building has barred windows and decorative architectural details. At the bottom of the image, there is an inscription dated "Rio-30-1-922."

The year was 1922; in the detail, we can observe his elegant style. The straight-brimmed hat with a ribbon, boater-style (“palheta”), and the light-colored jacket ‘set the tone’; and the window to the left contributes to this beautiful result – which, it's worth remembering, is just a detail from the previous photograph. And which has nothing to do with the purpose of that photograph.

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph of a man standing in front of a building. On the left side, there is a window with decorative metal bars. The building has a grainy texture on the lower part and a smooth wall above. The man has his back to the window, arms crossed, and is looking toward it. He is wearing a hat and a white shirt with black pants.

And what street is this? So far, we don't know; but perhaps someone reading these lines may be able to shed some light on it. We can see fine houses, the streetcar tracks already installed – but the street still without paving – and the poles holding up the light and power wiring. Almost everyone in the photo is waiting for the streetcar that is arriving, in the background. And that citizen carrying a series of stacked boxes on his back? A peddler — professionals who went door to door, offering various products —, perhaps? And as always happened on these occasions, the photographer was rewarded with the memorable collaboration of the passersby, who didn't mind being part of/joining the image that was then being composed in the camera's viewfinder.

Image description: This is an old black-and-white photograph showing a street with iron rails. On the left, there is vegetation and simple houses. In the center, two men are walking along the rails. On the right, there are taller buildings, including one with windows and doors. People are standing near the buildings, watching. In the lower right corner, there is a mark reading "C-245".

Let's get into detail. The mascate, as we said, was a street vendor, sometimes called a bufarinheiro, trading door to door. The man portrayed carries four boxes plus a bundle, stacked on his back; images of this form of trade in old Rio are rare. And in the foreground, we also have a valuable record of the way people dressed. The man in the jacket with a handkerchief in his pocket seems to be posing for the photographer, fully revealing his striped trousers, held up by suspenders. And the trouser hem is raised, which allows a better view of the shoe.

Image description: This is a sepia-toned photograph showing three men on a street. On the left side, a man in a suit and hat has his back turned, looking to the left. In the center, another man in a white shirt and hat faces forward, with his hands on his hips. On the right, a third man, also wearing a hat, stands still, looking to the left. In the background, a woman carries a box and walks along the sidewalk. The house in the background has barred windows and a white fence. The ground is made of dirt, and there is a small paved area on the left.

Light was demanding when it came to conduct at work, dealings with passengers, and also the appearance of its motormen and conductors (tram), and drivers and fare collectors (bus). They were always expected to be 'impeccable'. Those who spent the night at the "Hotel da Rua do Bispo," as the famous Hotel dos Condutores e Motorneiros was known, enjoyed special perks: washed and ironed clothes.

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph of a man in military uniform, posing beside a public lighting column. The column is positioned in the center of the image, with the man to its right. In the background, there is a street with tram tracks, palm trees, and other trees. On the left, another man is standing on the sidewalk. In the bottom left corner, there is a date and a signature, and in the bottom right corner, the number "1031".

What a spectacle this photograph is! It reminds us of fashion editorials. But it's just a line by a counter in the Light company's headquarters building, on Marechal Floriano street. There, among the four youngest, we see two in uniform; a boy scout and, probably, a cadet from the Military School. It's curious to observe the richness and diversity of ways of dressing. What title would you give this image?

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph of a group of people in an indoor setting, possibly a bank branch or a public office, with brick walls and stone columns. On the left side, there is a woman in a short dress and high-heeled shoes, followed by a man in a suit and hat. In front of her stands a boy in a school uniform. In the center, a man in a suit and hat stands beside other individuals, including a young man in a school uniform. On the right, more people are arranged in a line, some wearing hats and formal clothing. In the background, there is a row of teller counters or service desks, with hanging lights illuminating the space.

Memories of Rio's clogs... who would have thought! This footwear, also called “soco”, was once a true institution, brought by the Portuguese and later by Italian and German immigrants. Rustic, with a wooden (or cork) platform sole whose height may vary, with one or two straps of leather or another material to hold the feet. They can also be fully or partially closed – leaving the heels exposed; very cheap and effective for keeping the feet well away from the ground and insulated from dampness and electricity. And even after the advent of rubber boots and sandals, they are still popular in some cultures today; no longer around here. In the photograph, a worker with his pair of clogs next to a wire-drawing machine, producing wire.

Image description: This is a historic photograph of an industrial factory. On the left, workers in work uniforms are seen, some standing and others seated. In the center, a man stands, leaning against a large industrial machine. The machine has several wheels and mechanical components. On the right, there is a tall structure with pipes and electrical connections. The background shows walls and industrial structures. At the bottom of the image, there is a plate with the text "PLATE N° 953 - 9-DIE DRAWING BENCH".

There were several models of clogs, some better made and adapted to the shape of the feet, and others, not so much... sometimes even made by the very people who wore them. And this might be the case with the clogs in the following detail; quite rustic.

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph of a person wearing wide-leg pants and ballet flats. The person is partially seated, with one foot resting on a folding piece of wood. The foot is bare, with the toes spread apart. In the background, there is a wooden structure and a metal object.

Here, a typical industrial clog, of the kind that used to be sold on a large scale in Rio de Janeiro's fairs and markets, with a red or blue strap and white-colored edge trim. Even in the home environment, doormen, domestic workers, and washerwomen used to wear this footwear while carrying out their tasks, especially when the floor was wet.

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph showing three men at an excavation site. On the left side, a man sits cross-legged, wearing an open shirt and trousers. He is focused on something in his hand. In the center, another man sits wearing an open shirt and trousers, looking at the third man. The latter, wearing a white shirt and trousers, sits with his knees bent and a straw hat on. Behind them, part of a vehicle is visible. On the ground, there is equipment and tools, including a sack and metal pipes.

Here, the photograph of an unfortunate accident on Ana Nery street, involving a Leopoldina Railway locomotive and a tram. On such occasions, the photographer was always called in. Upon arriving, he would find the curious onlookers – curious not only about the accident, but also about the photographer's activities, his equipment and his ritual. Many of those people had perhaps never, or rarely, set foot in a studio to have a portrait made. It is possible that no one there truly had any idea how that phenomenon came about. Thus, it was only natural that those onlookers did not mind taking part in the scene and even posing, with elegance. The site of an accident could also become, after all, an opportunity to be seen.

Image description: This is an old black-and-white photograph showing a railway accident. On the left, we see a locomotive and a railcar that have been derailed from the tracks. People are scattered throughout the scene, some near the damaged locomotive, others farther away, observing the incident. In the background, there is a small building and trees. The date "JULY 7, 1910" is written at the bottom of the image, along with other details about the accident.

In detail, complete with an elegant pose amid the chaos, notice the leather clog – this one a more elaborate model, perhaps close to what was quite common in southern Brazil, brought over by Italian and German immigrants.

Image description: This is an old black-and-white photograph. In the image, we see a man standing on a locomotive. The locomotive takes up a large part of the image, with details such as pipes, valves, and a water tank visible. The man is wearing a straw hat, an open white shirt, and work trousers. He is posing with a smile, leaning against one of the locomotive's rails. In the background, we see a tree and a hazy landscape.

In another detail of the same photograph, it can be seen that many of those present were wearing hats. And the styles were varied. There is the flat-brimmed straw hat with a band (boater), the panama, the fedora (felt) worn by the man in the center in a jacket, waistcoat, and long tie. There are other styles of straw hats, berets, etc.

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph showing a scene of people in an outdoor setting, possibly near a railway station. On the left, we see a man with his back to the camera, wearing a white hat and a dark suit. He is interacting with other individuals who are inside a train car. In the center, a woman stands wearing a white hat and a white blouse with black details. Behind her is a person in formal attire, also wearing a hat. On the right, several people are gathered near a wooden structure. Some of them are wearing hats and varied clothing, suggesting different social classes. At the bottom of the image, we see the tops of other people's heads, indicating that the photo was taken from above.

We are now standing before a tram depot. Next to the building's façade, there are Light company employees, plus another one leaning against the railing, right behind a group of boys who look curiously at the photographer – who ends up making a record that far exceeds his initial purpose. The sign attached to the pole announces: "The Jardim Botânico Railway Co. provides landfill along its lines, charging only for the transport, 5$000 per m3. Minimum 100 m3." It was just another of the services provided by the company, in an area of the city that was, literally, under construction. On the upper part of the façade, the painted advertisement declares: "Leme Amusements. Free. Swings etc. etc. See advertisements. Trams in abundance." The Leme neighborhood was starting to be inhabited, and there was great interest in promoting it as a leisure resort for Rio residents and tourists.

Image description: This is an old black-and-white photograph, showing an urban scene with several people and a streetcar in front. On the left side, there is a building with classical architecture, possibly a theater or cinema, with large doors and decorated windows. In front of the building, there is a metal fence. People are scattered around the area, some walking and others talking. In the center, a group of children is near the tracks, while adults look on. On the right, a man in a suit and hat stands near a post with a public transit sign. The background features a street with more buildings and a broad-leaved tree.

What richness in the distinct ways of dressing among the kids we're highlighting in this detail... from the colorful (?) beret of the barefoot boy on the left, with his pants at calf height (a sailor's outfit?), to the ‘mini-adult’ on the right, with his boater hat (straw hat), wearing a jacket and a little bow tie, carrying what appear to be rolled-up papers in hand, his shoes dirty... such seriousness! Between the two extremes, an equally special pair. The one on the left shields his eyes from the sun, his long pants held up by suspenders, his shirt with long sleeves rolled up, carrying a bulky bag. Beside him, another barefoot boy wears shorts gathered at the knee and a jacket with a rather original design.

Image description: This is an old black-and-white photograph. In the image, we see six children standing in front of a building with metal grilles. From the left, the first child has their back turned, wearing a hat and white clothing. In front of them, another child stands, also with their back turned, wearing a hat and a white shirt. Two boys are facing forward, both wearing suits and hats. One of them holds an object in his hands. Behind them, an adult stands, wearing a military uniform and a hat. In the background, we see a large door and a window with grilles.

In the image and its detail, it's worth noting the clothing of the workers operating heavy equipment to bend rails. A rare image. Two men, different pants and shirts. The one on the left, wearing a t-shirt with a scarf tied around his neck, wears pants that are clearly held up at the waist; the other's, with a pleated shirt, are held up by suspenders. Distinct solutions for functional clothing, what richness. And the elegant hats.

Image description: This is a historic black-and-white photograph. In the image, three men are standing near a large industrial machine. The machine has large toothed wheels and a large horizontal cylinder. The men are wearing clothing typical of the period, with hats and long-sleeved shirts. In the background, there are buildings and an open area.

12

Imagem 1 de 2: Maquinário para curvar trilhos – Sem data – Fotógrafo não identificado

On the occasion of the opening ceremony of Light's (temporary) electricity distribution station on Rua Frei Caneca in 1907, the ceremony was a special one. The building had been built as a provisional powerhouse -- as can be seen behind the lively group posing for the photograph. Sizeable facilities were being built in the area, and that one far exceeded the needs of the construction site, going on to be used to serve Rio in tram service and in public and residential lighting. The Fontes hydroelectric plant, installed on the Lajes stream in the municipality of Piraí/RJ, was already completed and was officially opened in April 1908. The month was July, wintertime; note the coats; but we were not in Paris, we were on Rua Frei Caneca, downtown Rio. One “detail”: only white men were present! In other words: while we have Black and white men operating machines and doing the manual labor, when we look at a photo of people in decision-making positions, the whitening is total.

Image description: This is a black and white photograph of a group of people posing in front of an industrial building. The spatial arrangement is asymmetrical, with the individuals grouped on the left and some uniformed officials on the right. The building has an open door in the center, revealing an illuminated inner tunnel. On the left, there is a coiled wire cable on the wall. In the background, there is a sign with text in Spanish. Everyone present is wearing formal early 20th-century attire.

And in these two elongated details, what a spectacle -- this profusion of bowler hats (with a few dissidents wearing felt fedoras among them) and fine-toed Oxford shoes -- with laces to tie and generally higher heels. They were a novelty in those times, when the old shoemaking artisans were beginning to be replaced by 'shoemaker designers', if we may put it that way...

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph of a group of men standing in front of a building. The spatial arrangement is linear, with the men organized horizontally from left to right. They are all wearing suits and hats, some with mustaches and beards. In the background, there is a sign with text in Portuguese that reads "É PROIBIDA ENTRADA" (ENTRY PROHIBITED).

12

Imagem 1 de 2: Detalhe da fotografia Inauguração do Serviço de energia elétrica nas Usinas da Rua Frei Caneca – 30/07/1907 – Augusto Malta

And what about these trams? First and second class, headed to "Pça. 15 Nov." The photo, whose title mistakenly gives the leading role to the Army General Staff Headquarters building, was meant to capture the moment when the motorman used a lever to manually operate the 'track-switching device' — a diversion installed on the rails that allowed the tram to move from one line to another. There were 'points' on both rails, whose function was to move the rail-transfer pieces, operated manually by means of a latch. From the first tram, we have picked out two details that deserve attention and a brief comment.

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph of an old tram parked on the street. On the left, a partially visible tree can be seen. In the center, a tram with several people inside and outside of it is parked at the sidewalk. On the right, there is a large building with classical architecture, featuring arches and decorative windows. At the top of the tram, there is a sign that reads "P.C. 15 NOV." and "536."

In the first detail, the realization that even on the tram's footboards, elegance had its place. An elegance that looked toward Europe, even in a hot city like Rio. And, despite what white, racist society at the start of the 20th century wanted and expected, some Black citizens 'playing the game' of appearances, dressed according to what was understood as beautiful and refined.

Image description: This is a black-and-white photograph of people on a train. From left to right, there are individuals standing, some wearing hats and light-colored suits. In the center, others are seated, some also wearing hats and suits. On the right, more people are seated, including a woman in a light-colored dress. The background shows the interior of the train with metal grilles.

Now, pay attention to these four citizens captured by the camera (from left to right). All wearing hats. The one at the back, arms crossed, staring at the photographer; the one seated in front of him carries on reading his newspaper, ignoring the situation... or rather, going along with the pose. As for the citizen in front of him, a proud and elegant Black man, wearing a jacket and bow tie, a flat-brimmed hat with a band, boater-style (a "palheta"), clutching his umbrella, legs crossed, he stares firmly at the photographer. What a portrait! And the fourth and last, the mustached white man in front, cigarette pressed to his lips, hands crossed expressing some discomfort or anxiety, also stares at the photographer. He wears a vest under his jacket, a long tie, and a fedora hat (made of felt). He had the advantage of being in a spot that received more light; and the camera settings (aperture and shutter speed) were ideal for his condition. Whereas the one at the back, a Black man, in the shadows, was at a disadvantage. By the way, it's worth mentioning, this was always a problem for photography, whenever there were Black and white people in the same image. Light metering tended to favor those with lighter skin; Black people ended up far too obscured...

Image description: This is a black and white photograph showing five men sitting in chairs inside a train. From left to right, the men are arranged as follows: a man with a hat and mustache is sitting with his legs crossed; next to him, another man, also with a hat and mustache, is holding a newspaper; further to the right, a man with a mustache and hat is looking down; next to him, another man with a hat and mustache is sitting with his hands crossed; finally, a man with a mustache and hat is sitting with his hands on his lap. All of them are wearing suits and shoes.

...but nothing that digital treatment can't fix! Here it is, after digital restoration of the negative and a tone adjustment, in all its brilliance and splendor.

Image description: This is a black and white photograph showing six men seated on a bus. From left to right, the men are arranged in parallel rows. In the front row, three men have their backs to the camera, while in the second row, two men are facing forward. They are all wearing suits and hats, with details such as ties and shoes visible.